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時尚界對胖姑娘釋放出了一點善意
When Sal Perez, a stylist and costume designer,was dressing the actress Rebel Wilson for her role inthe movie “Pitch Perfect 2,” he had to find clothes for20 outfit changes. This was an even biggerchallenge than it sounds. Ms. Wilson is a plus-sizeactress working in a less-than-zero world.
造型師、服裝設計師薩爾·佩雷斯(Sal Perez)在電影《完美音調2》(Pitch Perfect 2)中爲女演員裏貝爾·威爾森(RebelWilson)設計造型，他必須爲她的角色找夠20套服裝。這個挑戰比聽起來的要難。威爾森穿大碼服裝，而在女演員的世界裏，大部分人穿的都是超小號。
Mr. Perez ended up finding some items online and designing others, which were made in hiscostume workshop.
最後，佩雷斯在網上找到了一些衣服，自己又設計了一些，在自己的服裝工作室裏製作。
“Trying to find plus-size clothes that are fashionable and well made is very difficult,” he said. “Iam horrified by some of the clothes I find in the stores. I don’t know anyone who enjoyswearing polyester. I think the fashion industry has to realize the potential the plus-size markethas.”
“尋找時尚、製作精良的大碼服裝非常困難，”他說，“我在商店裏找到的一些衣服把我嚇壞了。我沒見過誰喜歡穿滌綸服裝。我覺得時裝界必須意識到大碼市場的潛力。”
Styles for plus sizes, which range from 14 to 24, have long been characterized by down-market, back-of-the-store racks of drab tent-dresses, garishly decorated blouses andpolyester pants. The uniformly dark colors and generous silhouettes serve the sole purpose ofcovering up and deflecting attention from the body.
長期以來，14碼至24碼的大碼服裝大多是放在商店後面貨架上的低檔服裝——乏味的鬆身連衣裙、花哨的女襯衣和滌綸褲。它們有着千篇一律的深色和寬鬆的剪裁，唯一的目的是遮住身體，減少人們的關注。
But a new crop of online boutiques, retailers and designers is trying to make plus-size stylesmore fashion forward. Instead of elastic-waist pants and muumuu dresses, these companiesoffer clothes that reflect the runways (think jumpsuits), surpass the smock (leather pants)and even show a little skin (crop tops).
但是一些新的在線時裝精品店、零售商和設計師在努力讓大碼服裝變得更時尚。這些公司提供的不是鬆緊帶褲和寬大連衣裙，而是能反映秀臺潮流的服裝(比如連身褲)和超出寬鬆工作服範疇外的服裝(比如皮褲)，甚至是暴露一點肌膚的服裝(比如露臍上衣)。
The plus-size customer is “really letting her hair down for the first time,” said Marie Jean-Baptiste, the founder and designer of Rue107, which sells form-fitting mesh dresses ($110)and purple metallic jumpsuits ($59, on sale from $89) in sizes S to 3X.
Rue107的創始人、設計師瑪麗·讓-巴普蒂斯特(Marie Jean-Baptiste)說，他們的服裝讓穿大碼服裝的顧客“第一次放鬆下來”。該公司銷售修身網眼連衣裙(110美元)和紫色金屬質感連身褲(59美元，原價89美元)，尺碼從S號到3X號。
Customers have clamored for more and better options. Last spring Sarah Chiwaya, 30, a lawyerin Manhattan, attended a fashion event at Saks Fifth Avenue. Captivated by a perforatedleather midi skirt from Tibi, she was ready to spend. But the skirt was available only in smallsizes.
顧客們早已發出呼聲，要求擁有更多更好的選擇。30歲的莎拉·奇瓦亞(Sarah Chiwaya)是曼哈頓的一名律師。去年春天，她要去薩克斯第五大道精品百貨店參加一場時尚活動。她看上了Tibi的一條皮質打孔超短裙，打算破費一下。但是那條裙子只有小號。
“I would have bought it immediately if it were in my size, 16,” she said.
“如果有我的號，16號，我肯定馬上買了，”她說。
Frustrated, Ms. Chiwaya turned to her blog, Curvily, and bemoaned the lack of options. Sheused a hashtag, #plussizeplease, that has been adopted by others across all sorts of socialplatforms like Tumblr, Pinterest, Instagram and Twitter.
沮喪的奇瓦亞在自己的博客Curvily上嘆息選擇太少。她加上了#plussizeplease(求大碼)，這個標籤在各種社交平臺上被廣泛使用，比如Tumblr、Pinterest、Instagram和Twitter。
“I wanted it to be a way to show retailers the money they’re losing,” she said.
“我想通過這種方式告訴零售商他們正在讓能到手的錢溜走，”她說。
The market, in fact, is robust. The average American woman wears a size 14, and womenwearing size 14 and up account for 67 percent of the population, according to the industryanalyst firm Plunkett Research Ltd. Last summer, the NPD Group reported that plus-sizeclothing sales grew more than 5 percent from May 2013 to April 2014, going from $16.7 billionto $17.5 billion.
實際上，這個市場很大。據行業分析公司Plunkett Research Ltd.稱，美國女人的平均服裝尺碼是14碼，穿14碼及以上的女人佔全體美國女性的67%。去年夏天，NPD集團報告稱，從2013年5月至2014年4月，大碼服裝的銷售額增長了5%以上，從167億美元增長到了175億美元。
That is perhaps why youthful-leaning, mass-market retailers like Asos, H & M, Mango, WetSeal, ModCloth and Forever 21 have begun selling either an expanded size range or adedicated plus-size line.
可能是由於這個原因，Asos、H&M、Mango、Wet Seal、ModCloth和Forever 21等面向年輕大衆的.零售商開始銷售更多尺碼的服裝或者推出專門的大碼服裝系列。
“We work in the exact same way as Asos core brand,” said Natasha Smith, a buyer for thenew line, Asos Curve, in London. “There’s nothing we wouldn’t try: hot pants, bodysuits.”
“我們的運作方式與Asos的核心品牌一模一樣，”購買新系列Asos Curve的倫敦買家娜塔莎·史密斯(NatashaSmith)說，“我們什麼都嘗試：熱褲、緊身衣褲。”
Several new companies are making plus-size their sole focus. One is Eloquii, which aims to dofor the plus market what Zara has done in the mainstream market: offer customers optionsthat mimic runway trends but at prices that are lower than those in boutiques and departmentstores.
有幾家新公司專門做大碼女裝。其中一家是Eloquii，它的目標很像Zara在主流市場的做法：在大碼市場領域內向顧客提供模仿秀臺潮流但價格低於精品店或商場的服裝。
Currently, Eloquii is showing items like a leopard-print baseball jacket ($138), a cashmeresweater with Breton stripes ($138) and faux leather culottes ($98).
目前，Eloquii正在展示豹紋棒球夾克(138美元)、布列塔尼條紋羊絨衫(138美元)和仿皮褲裙(98美元)。
Eloquii was originally started in 2011 as a sister brand to the Limited, but was closed in 2013when the Limited decided to shed its noncore brands. A group of former employees, includingthe creative director, Jodi Arnold, restarted the brand last year. (Its products are availableon the label’s website as well as on ). A former Gilt executive, John Auerbach, isa founding investor.
2011年，Eloquii最初是作爲Limited的姐妹品牌創立的，但是2013年，Limited決定甩掉非核心品牌，Eloquii因此倒閉。去年，Eloquii從前的一羣員工，包括創意總監約迪·阿諾德(Jodi Arnold)，復興了這個品牌(你可以在該品牌的網站和上買到它的產品)。Gilt的前執行官約翰·奧爾巴赫(JohnAuerbach)是該品牌的創辦投資人之一。
“The team doesn’t have a plus background, which is a good thing,” said Mariah Chase, thecompany’s chief executive, using industry jargon to refer to the plus-size niche.
“這個團隊沒有做大碼時裝的背景，這是好事，”該公司的首席執行官瑪麗亞·蔡斯(Mariah Chase)說。
“The starting point is trends, the runway,” Ms. Arnold added.
“我們的起點是潮流，是秀臺，”阿諾德補充說。
For example, Eloquii’s Kady pant (made in an array of fabrics, from $88 in a graphic rose printto $78 in solid navy) is “a structured, fitted pant where our customer has just gotten stretchbefore,” Ms. Chase said. A faux-leather fitted midi skirt, $128, sold out in 72 hours, accordingto Ms. Arnold. The company has recently raised $6 million from investors.
蔡斯說，比如，Eloquii的卡迪褲(有各種面料，從88美元的玫瑰印花到78美元的純藍色)是“裁剪得當的修身褲，我們的顧客剛好能穿進去”。阿諾德說，128美元的仿皮修身超短裙在推出72小時後就賣光了。該公司最近從投資人那裏籌集了600萬美元。
In a skinny-celebrity-obsessed world, it has been difficult to overcome the dowdy image ofplus size. What’s more, many women are uncomfortable identifying themselves as plus-sizeshoppers, which hampers word-of-mouth.
在癡迷身材纖細的名人的世界裏，大碼服裝很難****古板過時的形象。另外，很多女人不願承認自己穿大碼，這妨礙了口碑流傳。
But social media is helping to change that, said Aimee Cheshire, the president and a founder , an online boutique that carries pieces from ABS By Allen Schwartz (wrapdress, $198), Lucky Brand denim (black straight-leg jeans, $89.50) and Ellen Tracy (angoracoat, $169) in sizes 10 and up.
不過，在線時裝精品店的總裁和創始人艾梅·切希爾(Aimee Cheshire)說，社交媒體正在幫助改變這一點。該網店銷售ABS By Allen Schwartz(裹裙，198美元)、Lucky Brand denim(黑色直筒牛仔褲，89.50美元)和 Ellen Tracy(羊毛外衣，169美元)等品牌的服裝，尺碼都在10碼以上(含10碼)。
“I’ll get emails asking, ‘How do I recommend it to my friend without offending her?’ ” hire said. “I always say share it on Facebook.”
“我收到一些郵件詢問，‘我怎麼才能在不冒犯朋友的情況下推薦你們網站?’”切希爾說，“我總是回覆說，在Facebook上分享它。”
She said she tries to encourage plus-size women to openly embrace their personal stylerather than hide their shape. HeyGorgeous tells these women they “aren’t the ugly stepsister,they’re our main woman,” Ms. Cheshire said.
切希爾說她儘量鼓勵穿大碼的女人公開接受自己的個人風格，而不是掩飾身材。她還說，HeyGorgeous網站對這些女人說，她們“不是醜陋的繼女，而是女性的主流”。
“They’re not used to being wanted,” she said. “There’s no aspiration, no Vogue for the plussized.”
“人們還不習慣去期待大碼服裝，”她說，“在大碼時裝界沒有抱負，沒有時尚。”
Most plus-size clothes could be divided into three segments: “work wear, club wear andgrandma clothes,” said Nicolette Mason, a plus-size fashion blogger. The problem has not beenjust a lack of options for consumers, but also retailers’ belief that plus-size women can’tsupport a high-fashion niche.
大碼時裝博客寫手尼科萊特·梅森(Nicolette Mason)說，大部分大碼服裝可以分爲三類：“工作服、俱樂部服裝和祖母服”。問題不只是顧客們缺少可選的衣服，零售商們也認爲穿大碼服裝的女人撐不起高級時裝這個細分市場。
“When you’re taught to look at your body as a work in progress, you’re not going to spend$1,000 on a coat to last forever because you’re not hoping for it to last forever,” Ms. Masonsaid.
“如果別人教導你，讓你認爲自己的身體可以不斷改進，那你就不會花1000美元買一件能一直穿下去的外衣，因爲你不希望自己的身材永遠是這樣的，”梅森說。
Gwynnie Bee, a clothing rental subscription service for sizes 10 to 32, is a more casual versionof Rent the Runway (which began its own plus-size division in 2013). The site carries lines likeBB Dakota and Three Dots. A $35-a-month commitment will get you one piece of clothing at atime; 10 pieces will cost $159 a month.
Gwynnie Bee是一個租賃10碼至32碼服裝的訂購服務公司，是休閒裝版的Rent the Runway(這家公司從2013年開設了大碼服裝部門)。該網站提供BB Dakota和Three Dots等品牌的服裝。一個月支付35美元，你便能每次能租一件衣服;一個月支付159美元，便可以每次租10件。
In the shadow of all the new focus on how to dress a larger woman, mainstays of the fashionindustry that have helped propagate the connection between high fashion and small sizes areshowing a greater willingness to embrace a curvier world. Calvin Klein used the model MylaDalbesio, who is a size 10, in a lingerie campaign. In November, shot a lingeriespread using plus-size models.
過去，大型時裝公司曾鼓吹高級時裝和小碼之間有着密不可分的聯繫。如今，如何給體型偏胖的女人設計服裝成了新的焦點，大公司也開始樂於接受更豐滿的世界。Calvin Klein請穿10碼的麥拉·戴爾伯西奧(MylaDalbesio)擔任一個內衣廣告的模特。去年11月，請一些大碼模特拍攝了一個內衣平面廣告。
The 2015 Pirelli calendar, shot by Steven Meisel and styled by Carine Roitfeld, included theplus-size model Candice Huffine. Two edgy clothing lines, Chromat and Zana Bayne, sent plus-size models down the runway in their presentations last September.
倍耐力(Pirelli)的2015年曆中有大碼模特坎迪絲·赫法恩(Candice Huffine)，攝影師是史蒂文·梅塞(StevenMeisel)，造型師是卡琳·洛菲德(Carine Roitfeld)。兩大前衛時裝品牌Chromat和Zana Bayne在去年9月的時裝秀上派出了大碼模特。
For now, any competition is welcome.
目前，任何競爭都是受歡迎的。
“I would love to have more places to shop, for it to be a fun leisure activity with multiplesources,” said Kelly Goldston, the director of marketing at Eloquii. As more plus-size womenget into the habit of expressing their personal style, business will be better for everyoneinvolved, she said, adding, “New players would be good for us.”
“我希望有更多可以購物的地方，因爲那將是匯聚人脈的有趣的休閒活動，”Eloquii的營銷總監凱利·戈德斯頓(Kelly Goldston)說。她說，更多穿大碼的女人養成了表現個人風格的習慣，這對所有參與這項生意的人來說都是好事，“新競爭對手將有益於我們”。
